Brasov: the Gateway to Transylvania

Oct 28, 2011
Ben Pilkington

Brasov - Mount Tâmpa - Ben Pilkington, June 2011

Brasov is becoming ever more popular as a tourist destination and has a lot to offer, but the town is also a convenient springboard for other destinations

After three hours travelling by train from Bucharest, finally breaking out of the Carpathian Mountains, the surrounding land becomes flat again with just a few steep hills to be seen from the windows. The train slows and stops. Brasov.

Outside of the main station building are a number of bus stops going to different parts of the town. To the right a glaring screen promotes an easily recognisable fashion store. To the left are tenements or perhaps some office buildings. The station definitely says Brasov, but what can be seen is unrecognisable from any pictures seen before choosing the town as the destination.

Fear not. The Brasov that is becoming ever more popular as a tourist destination is really a town within a town, a bus journey away to the south. Located within the old town walls is old Brasov, the medieval settlement once called Kronstadt. Lying in nook of the mountains the town once used to be part of the Habsburg – or Austro-Hungarian – Empire. A walk around the walls and its towers leaves the impression of being in central Europe rather than Romania.

It is in the old town that Brasov’s charming character lies.

Old Brasov

To cater for the large and growing number of tourists there is a plentiful supply of hotels, bars and restaurants which provide both traditional and international cuisine and drinks.

In the town centre there is an Irish-themed pub which hosts live bands and the well known Irish stout, as well as a range of food including its own take on the breakfast fry-up. For traditional food one of the best eateries is Sergiana’s, where there is a great selection of wine and food such as Sarmale and Polenta. A nice (and tasty) touch is the fresh bread and pork rinds served with raw red onion to eat whilst deciding on your meal.

There are Mexican and Italian themed restaurants and many more besides, and while they exude their own atmosphere and charm their best quality is enabling you to relax and soak up the charm of Brasov itself. The town square is a great place to relax, with Mount Tampa towering to the south, the Black Church close by. The Black Tower and White Tower can be seen on the opposite side of the town, and the walls – some parts over 600 years old – are fantastic to walk around.

The citadel lies north of the old town centre, and is accessible via a long winding road through hillside residential areas. It is a long walk, but worthwhile for the alternative views of the town to those offered by Mount Tampa.

Mount Tampa

Most easily accessed from the old town is Mount Tampa. Some 3,000 feet high, Mount Tampa offers not only a fantastic panorama of the majority of Brasov and many miles beyond, but a serene and picturesque vista on its reverse slope looking into the valley and the Carpathian Mountains beyond. There are trails to walk up or there is a cable car. A café at one end of the summit offers refreshments and at the other is the famous Brasov sign.

Rasnov Citadel and Bran Castle

Brasov is also a great base for excursions elsewhere. Rasnov and Bran are two fantastic medieval settlements to visit. Rasnov is about 15km from Brasov, a short bus ride away from Brasov’s second main bus station, Autogara 2. With the historical citadel atop a hill it looks quite domineering, however the fortress itself is deceptively small.

With the same Hollywood-style sign as Brasov on the hillside it stands out quite prominently as a tourist destination. Inside the walls there is a museum where, among other things, you can see a skeleton buried beneath a glass floor.

Continuing past Rasnov lies Bran, about 25km from Brasov. Its main attractions are the market in the town outside the castle grounds, as well as the castle itself. Bran castle is famous for its association with the Dracula myth; however it never belonged to the count.

Despite this there is plenty of information about the count, the myth and his family tree, as well as information about the royal family that resided there. Assorted heraldry, armour and arms are on display, as well as various examples of attire from Teutonic knights to that of the former royal occupants. The castle also commands beautiful views from its rooms and towers over the local countryside.

With Bran castle as well as Rasnov citadel there is an admission charge but it is a small price to pay for the experience each offer. Each destination is a day trip in itself so make sure that enough time is set aside if either place seems appealing.

Other places to visit include Sibiu, an historic market town about 136km to the west of Brasov, and Peles Castle in Sinaia which is 64km to the south of Brasov. Both are accessible by train or car, though Sibiu does have a bus route linking it with Brasov.

Poiana Brasov

If skiing is your thing then the fantastic resort of Poiana Brasov is just 12km from Brasov. It boasts nine ski slopes catering for every level of skier, modern sports facilities, and is relatively cheap compared to ski resorts in Switzerland, Austria, France, Italy and Germany. With snow lasting for about 120 days each year there is plenty of skiing to be done.

In the summer the resort is still very active with a horse-riding centre, tennis courts and swimming pools as well as a number of trails to walk which attract tourists.

The resort also offers a selection of great hotels, restaurants and bars, including Coliba Haiducilor, or “Outlaws Hut”, which offers Romanian folk music and a wide range of delicious food. Traditional as well as international food is served in the resorts’ restaurants. A couple of kilometres away there is also the Stana Turistica, a sheepfold where you can go to sample selections of fresh meat, milk and cheese.